Need a Quicky Vacation?Why not Catalina Island?
I have three brothers, all in various stages of retirement or near retirement. We were very close as youngsters, living an arguably Ozie and Harriet life in the suburbs. We all grew up and went our separate ways to several disparate locations across the U.S and, for a time really lost touch with each other. Several years ago, we decided to change all that. We reserved the last week in May – just before Memorial Day - for a “Bros Trip.”
Previous “Bros Trips” found us fishing near Aspen, hiking in the Wyoming wilderness, exploring the Olympic Peninsula, and relaxing in South Park, Colorado. For this year’s trip, we decided to check out Catalina Island. “Yeah, why not?”
Being closest geographically, I was charged with the task of setting everything up. None of us had ever been there but pictures of Avalon Harbor soon danced in our heads. But something told me …no. Too much like La La Land. We would go to Two Harbors instead. Ever hear of Two Harbors?
This quaint little town is located on the far northern isthmus of Catalina Island. Avalon is an hour away by jet boat and 2 + hours away by a secondary dirt road. In a word – isolated. We took the twice daily ferry from San Pedro directly to Two Harbors and found a small village of support structures including a restaurant and a small store operated by the Catalina Island Company. Not much going on here – and just what we were looking for.
There is really only one place to stay at Two Harbors, a delightful 14-room hotel called the Banning House built as a hunting lodge in 1910 by Joseph Brent Banning. He and his brothers had decided they needed a place to go hunting on their newly acquired island. The lodge was used and maintained by the family for years until the William Wrigley Jr. Family of chewing gum fame purchased Catalina Island from them in 1919. The complex has been used as a hunting lodge for years, but, when the Santa Catalina Island Company took over the operation in 1998, it became a bed and breakfast/inn that guests enjoy today.
Upon debarking our ferry at Two Harbors, we were met by Katie, a delightful staff member of the Lodge and driven up a dusty road to the top of a nearby hill where the lodge is located. We immediately felt at home and were greeted by a plate of chocolate chip cookies just out of the oven. The friendly manager Russ, and Katie checked us into our room and invited us to Wine and Cheese on the covered patio overlooking the bay – an absolutely memorable experience - where we met and talked with other guests who quickly became old friends. From there, it was a brief walk down the hill to the restaurant (the only restaurant) in the village. Food was excellent and prices were acceptable. The restaurant did a good job of sustaining our needs for the following several days of our stay.
The Lodge is right out of the 1920’s and very nostalgic. Rooms are rustic but clean and updated to comfortable standards. There are several living areas overlooking the bay that offer great nooks in which to read that novel you’ve had laying around. One brother found a little loft area in which to hibernate when he wasn’t out running the flat, scenic trails surrounding the Lodge. There is biking, hiking, kayaking and snorkeling available for anyone interested but…very little else. This must be the best place on the West Coast to just vegetate - and maybe run into Ernest Hemmingway in the restaurant bar. With only 14 rooms, this place feels like you are the only one there; an experience less like the standard forced vacation in an impersonal Holiday Inn and more like an idealistic stay with good friends at their resort home on a distant desert island.
If you feel like a quick trip to another world far, far from DTLA and its recent unpleasantness, you can do no better than visiting Russ and Katie and the Banning House Lodge. Reservations: https://www.visitcatalinaisland.com. Direct line to Banning House Guest Services 310-510-2000, ext. 4150.
And you can get from South Park to San Pedro ferry on the Metro – no driving required. At Flower and Pico, pick up the Metro J line/Silver Line bus for a 45-minute ride and then a 12-minute walk or Lyft/Uber ride to the ferry. Or opt for the Metro A line train to downtown Long Beach and then pick up the 142 westbound bus or Lyft/Uber to the ferry.
Summertime…and easy, relaxed living in nature is in our backyard!
By John Nilsson